Monochrome Monday (Name Withheld)

Got this message from a mate as I nursed a chest cold which is keeping me out of the water

"Got a good little wave at NAME WITHHELD yesterday morning 2-3 ft wrapping around the point and offshore really long rides had to go in and walk back up the point rather than paddle back I was the only one out for about half an hour then two guys on a yacht pulled up and came over on SUPs I felt a little better then as the odds of me being taken by a great white decreased with two others out in the water - will post some pics when I get home"

Rods, reefs and reefer$

Safe Travels

Safe travels, 

wherever the Easter break 

takes you.

"Is that me?"

As the dude with the camera, I often get asked, when it comes to the show and tell stage of surf imagery, "Is that me?" or "Did you get that tube of mine?" or "God, I look like kook!"

After decades of surfing I had one colour snap of me cutting back at Noosa on a MP inspired pintail flyer back in the 70's. When it's good, nobody wants to shoot.

Now, thanks to my mate Rimmo, I have a couple of happy snaps from  a small session at Cokes (or in my case Kooks). Oh the temptation to make the wave more heroic and my good self more buff using Photoshop. But no, I don't have enough time! So here they are, sensible equatorial sun gear and all. The board is a four channel Simon Jones "Mr Freedom", which is brilliant.