Sometimes you need a break from the pack (mentality) to harvest some stoke. If you can't take a physical break, take a mental break and push those neurons into some unfamiliar terrain.
As various corporate lackeys sell us beautifully crafted rewrites of the already rewritten "Official History of Surfing", we need another perspective, a counterpoint or back beat. We need the self-funded, yet knowlegable crew "Who Were Actually There" to step up and share what it was really like for them - what boards they rode, where they surfed, who inspired them. Otherwise, our surfing universe will only be inhabited by downsized, homogenised, Photoshopped "Legends", who, although legitimate, progressives back in the day only provide a limited mythical view of our collective history.
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