We've been talking a lot lately about why our friends gave surfing away and let their boards gather dust.
Some got into other scenes. Some pursued careers far from the brine. Some were seduced by their demons, never to return.
We've also been talking a lot lately about why we keep surfing.
Even in dribbly conditions, after searching for an hour along scoured sandbanks. And we keep coming back to the social aspect of surfing a quiet spot with a couple of pals.
Doesn't matter whether they are riding one fin, no fin or three finned mals. It's the social aspect of sharing the brine under a big blue sky with people dear to us.
A big feed, a coffee or three afterwards and talking story is the icing on the cake.
Here's one for everybody who still goes out even when it's sub-optimal.
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