Thursday, February 26, 2015

Swiss Chalet

Summer 75/75. Mate's Dad took a whole bunch of us teenagers in his Landy tray-back up to DI. 
It was so stinkin hot and the water so clear, you could hardly see the waves.
In the distance is the massive thundery we got on the way back to Coolum. (The Mum still lives in the Swiss Chalet there overlooking Point Perry,)
This is a really good example of a very bad scan and why I bought my own scanner. #hownottoscan — atTeewah Beach.

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Shipwrecks and goddesses

According to Aboriginal legend, when humans were created and needed a place to live, the mighty god Beiral sent his messenger Yendingie with the goddess K’gari down from heaven to create the land and mountains, rivers and sea. K’gari fell in love with the earth’s beauty and did not want to leave it. So Yendingie changed her into a heavenly island – Fraser Island (named after shipwreck survivor Eliza Fraser).

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Gums ain't Gums

These aren't just any old gum trees.
They have stood witness to surfer parties, 
galahs nesting, 
kookaburras swooping on unattended BBQs, 
cars on fire and 
empty waves rolling down the point.

Monday, February 16, 2015

Saturday, February 7, 2015

Inspiring Older Folks

When I started surfing, there were nobody riding logs anymore.
Nobody seemed to be older than about 30 in the line-up.
There was definitely no Wrecks n Relics Comp for the 50+ vintage.
It's great that there's older crew still nailing a few bombs despite the ravages of time and disease, like Bill "Mr Woosleys" Stewart below.
Go hard young fella.

"I think it's almost Impossible for a young person to get into the head of an old person. 
If we could the world would never go forward nor would it change.
The old are perhaps younger in mind than we. 

But their bodies have rebelled against them, 
and while we still have our eyes, our legs, our ears, 
we cannot imagine this. 

We think our material selves will last forever. 

The old know better. 
They know that nothing lasts but words, music and colour. 
The rest is just a pile of bones and teeth and 
a dark spot on the ground."

Erica Jong

Seducing the Demon

Thursday, February 5, 2015


somethging to think about while stuck in the dentist chair or jammed into a crowded bus, train or lineup