Losing One's Marbles is Optional

I've known my best mate since he moved into our street when we were both nine years old. Unlike me, he's a goofy footer. I have archives of classic shots of him and although this old shot is not him, it reminds me of the wave of the trip my mate scored in the Maldives. As I'm paddling back out at Sultans, I get caught inside as he comes screaming across the reef at high speed on his bright orange Southcoast longboard. 

The sight of him way above me as I duck dive is etched deep in the memory bank. We rate our surf sessions in marbles, as in "that was a two marble surf".  If you don't surf enough, you'll lose your marbles (go crazy). I'm pretty sure that Sultans session was a three or four marble surf.

For some reason, foggy mornings like today remind me of an epic day when my best mate and I were teenagers editing our sociology video assignment at university. We thought our "mockumentary" parody of Academia was pretty awesome after one whole day of editing. The lecturer, a famous person from The Film Industry, deemed it "unfit for human consumption". We took that as a compliment.

Happy holidays, buddy and get some marbles back in the barrel.

Monochrome Monday (behind)

Who can keep up

with the 24/7 

march of technology?

Just when I think

I have the hang of it,

they release an update

or another version 

- albeit

better, 

faster, 

clearer

(meaning

"we want your cash".)

Maybe I'll keep

my "square" status

a little longer.

I never was too good

at being

an early adopter

Buddah Would Go

I bought a tee shirt the other week showing a drawing of a chubby Buddah with a surfboard and the words "Buddah would go" - a kinda twisted tribute to the late Eddie Aikau ("Eddie would Go"). 

The lady who made it claimed it was a true story. She went to go surfing with her husband and thought the conditions were a bit wild for her level of competence. Her hubby simply said "Buddah would go". They had a great surf and she got inspired to make a tee. 

I like to think about that phrase - "Eddie would go", when I need a little kick along in the motivation department.

The notion of a deity surfing makes as much sense I suppose as a deity having a birthday (is that a tautology, deity being born and all?). I know Jesus spent a bit of time on the water. I'm not across the whole Buddah-on-brine thing, so maybe I'll crash his birthday party this weekend to find out more.

In the meantime here's an inspiring vid from Kiwi photog, Mark Gee. Happy Birthday Buddah.

Dr Maria

 Today's post dedicated to my doctor, Maria. BIG thanks.

 Kustom Krafts markets, music and roller derby car wash (?me too?), this weekend at the Bearded Dragon Hotel. 

Cod Hole Dreaming