Thursday, May 31, 2012

Beached and shattered

Today's post
is for all the beached and broken
rugged and buggered
and shattered
wage warriors
who have made it 
to Friday.
Bliss awaits.

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Lino x winter

Winter starts this week. 
It has inched its way into town, 
stealing a little more light each day. 

But the mild winter light 
is gentle on the eyes and skin, 
making for epic days at the beach 
or just kicking back on the deck 
jamming with friends or
carving a linoprint.

Monday, May 28, 2012

Highway Chile

Excerpt from my highway diary:
"By the time I pull up for petrol, it's warmed up to 7 degrees. There's not a lot in the highway before dawn and as cold as I am, even in a thick hoodie and cordie jeans combo, I spy a lone soul in the sky gliding his gyro on invisible currents a couple of hundred feet above this highway."
"His old guitar slung across his back 
His dusty boots is his cadillac 
Flamin' hair just a blowin' in the wind 
Ain't seen a bed in so long it's a sin 

Now you may call him a tramp 
But I know it goes a little deeper than that 
He's a highway chile "
from Highway Chile by Jimi Hendrix

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Blue Monday

It's probably barrelling 
off it's nut 
right now 
and nobody's on it.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Monday, May 21, 2012

Out the Back!!

You hear the call from a mate "out the back!" and the heart starts racing as the arms pump furiously over one moving mountain and then another and maybe this one will be the one you take off on, treading the fine line between exhilaration and annihilation. How do you explain such madness to saner souls?

Sunday, May 20, 2012

The shooter as passenger

How good is it to be the passenger on a surfari when you're the shooter?
BIG thanks to my mates Ryan and Tiggy for taking me to Byron Shire yesterday (and bought me lunch!)
And let me poke my wide-angle in their faces.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Butcher's Hook

I'm butcher's hook, 
which is Aussie slang for crook 
or unwell. 
Here's a couple of shots 
from better times.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

The Unseen

This weekend
100000 volunteers
will be asking us to
dig deep
to raise money
for the great unseen
in our society.

More info at

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Lunch Break

There's not much you can do 
on a 45 minute lunch break. 
Is there?
Maybe catch one wave 
on The Point on a crowded day.
Catch the news?
Maybe catch some Metal Magic
on a lunch time stroll.
Or maybe tread water 
with an old film camera? 

Monday, May 14, 2012

Life and Death

life and death
we're all on a trajectory
sometimes on different orbits
but a trajectory
longer than some critters
shorter than the stars

finite laps of the Sun

some of us
only leave foot prints
and castles in the sand
some of us only 
leave marks on 
somebody's wall
some of us trap time
in little analogue 
and digital boxes
or moving sounds
plucked from the ether
and shared with family and fans
finite laps of the sun
finite waves to be had
let's go and get out there!

Sunday, May 13, 2012

My Stars are Aligning

For some surfers the movement of the moon and the relationship of the Sun's electro-magnetic pulses are tantamount to an exact science of big swell prediction. For me observing the movement of the local ant colonies is enough to warn me of impending rains and floods (though not swell).

For others the movements of the planets and constellations are an exact science. The longer I surf the more I discover I don't know. (But the discovery keeps life interesting.) Some things I know I won't definitely know in this lifetime and astrology is one of them. However, this weeks forecast did put alittle extra spring in my dawn jog-shuffle-amble this morning. The only thing "inventive" (see below) I have been doing for along time is trapping time in my little analogue and digital boxes,,,

"Mercury moves into your 4th house and a mutual reception with Venus, who is expanding your creative talents into uncharted territory. This is the kind of energy where something inventive you’ve been doing for a long time gets noticed and you get the rare opportunity to catch a glimpse of your genius. You don’t have to make any effort this week, the things you do are so readily received there’s no way you can be ignored. Now all you have to do is say yes to the attention. On Sunday the Sun and Jupiter come together at the bottom of your chart and give you the kind of platform you need to be willing to put it all out there on the line. Public acclaim is not your usual comfort zone."

Thursday, May 10, 2012


Today's post dedicated to my mate Bazza
and all the other surfers in hospitals.
Get well soon cobbers.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

The Wasp

Vespa is an iconic Italian 
scooter brand. 
The name means "wasp".
Chuck a board rack on the side 
and you have the perfect 
urban search engine,
for Mods and 
Modyssey fans alike.
The Who's Quadrophenia

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Lone Wolf

I read somewhere sometime that George Greenough would rather surf average waves alone than perfect waves with a crowd. 
All my friends were once strangers to me. So, I'd like to think that a stranger is a friend I haven't met yet.
Though sometimes, when it takes two hours to get two perfect point waves, that I'm a lone wolf in a pack of lone wolves.