If Lenin surfed

If Lenin surfed, he would probably wave to his salty comrades while gliding on his log as demonstrated here by Noosa Mal Club elder,  Mick Henderson. No idea whether there would be a revolution or not though.
Maybe he'd argue for surfers to give up the shackles of commercially dependent product and embrace the purity of body surfing.

Sunday Drive

Razor Time

I really have better things to be doing this morning than Photoshopping a few JPEGs into shape.

I mean, I could be dragging some sharp object across my face so that my appearance is less scarey and hairy.
I could be chucking some chemicals thru my hair to remove the grease and then chuck some more in to add oils back.
I could be rolling some more chemicals under my manly arm pits and brushing other stuff onto what's left of my teeth (did I tell you about the $600 wave? Dentist's fee after nasty wipeout).
I could be imprisoning my fallen arches into leathery corporate looking shoes and striding confidently towards my commuting destiny.

Or I could be surfing.

Painting by Parrish Watts

The Bronzed Hipster

There used to be a crew back in the day called the Bronzed Aussies - Mark Richards(?), Ian Cairns, Peter Townend. This was an early attempt to redefine the image of surfers as professional athletes worthy of Big Money sponsorship.

Image wise - surfing has kinda embraced a new, not so sporty looking, yet incredibly gifted surfers that traverse the globe "free surfing" while sporting the look of the Freemanle Fisho statue above. 

I christen them The Bronzed Hipsters.

Falling down the mountain

The Bell Jar

“I saw the years of my life spaced along a road 

in the form of telephone poles threaded together by wires. 

I counted one, two, three... nineteen telephone poles, 

and then the wires dangled into space, 

and try as I would, 

I couldn't see a single pole 

beyond the nineteenth.” 

― Sylvia Plath, The Bell Jar

Duo duo

 Book of the week - "The Five Secrets You Must Discover Before You Die" by John Izzo, who argues the following:

1   be true to yourself

2   leave no regrets

3   become love

4   live the moment

5   give more than you take

(I'm adding one for surfers

wear sunscreen)

Dr Maria

 Today's post dedicated to my doctor, Maria. BIG thanks.

 Kustom Krafts markets, music and roller derby car wash (?me too?), this weekend at the Bearded Dragon Hotel. 

Death, pelicans and tractors

I was jogging around a few headlands, a few hundred miles, a few Peronis and a few days ago, when I discovered where old tractors go to die. There's this special headland that must remain unnamed where rusty old Massey Ferguson's are still valued. (And I thought, "this is my kind of place"). The surf on the biggest point was building and old surfers shuffled in their sheds looking for that Big Day Shooter from a few seasons ago. Even the eyes in the hills knew it would be on in a few days.

In the meantime, the boat ramp was busy with dozens of ancient farm tractors happily launching fishing vessels into the brine. Job done, the tractors would sit in bunches quietly rusting, talking story of fertile paddocks, bush flies the size of a child's fist and lightning (that stuff can kill a tractor!), waiting to once again be put to work towing boats, fisherfolk and their overnight catches back to land. Their eyes aimed north towards the horizon, while pelicans dallied in the offshores