Write Your Story

First up, apologies to my regular visitors. I've been haunted by a few demons from the past this week and been off my game.
But I'm back.

Friday, the gateway to the weekend.
With so many "definitive" histories of surf out there, it's time we all wrote our own stories.
Just because ours' didn't feature a camera crew and competitive surf stars, doesn't mean they didn't happen.
Doesn't mean they're somehow a less valid component in our shared surfing lore.

And if you haven't got a story yet, then the weekend provides the platform for what might be considered EPIC in years to come.
Share the stoke.

Rip Off Rant

ok, 

so you think it's fine to steal music from rich bands

well don't come stealing my images for your profit

i didn't spend 20 years processing my own films

i didn't waste hours working dead end jobs

to spend $15K on equipment

i didn't stand in the sun while my mates got barrelled

i didn't nearly drown to get the water shot

for you to steal my images

ok?

(this post is for Steen Barnes 

and all the other surf photogs 

who've been ripped off. 

Hang tight brine brothers!)

1 - 2 - 3

This was one of the smaller but cleaner ones on a crowded morning in the middle of the Indian Ocean. (We had all swallowed the advertorial of uncrowded tropical bliss)

The spot was Jails in the Maldives -  shooting from a tinny on the shoulder. Suddenly a rogue set sweeps in and nearly cleans us up. As the tinny skipper shouts "Is safe. Is safe" I'm shouting back "Go go go!!"

Later that morning the tinny's outboard motor broke down. Luckily I had put the camera away by then.

Monochrome Monday (Electro Ghoulam)

Whatta way to go

 Today's post tips the trucker's cap to Seasick Steve who reminds us that NOW is the time and TODAY is the day.

"Twenty five years working for the state

Saved all your money, got a good rate

Always thinking 'bout that pension plan

The day of retirement, the promised land, well

Got a finish off that swimming pool

Get some umbrellas, don't wanna be cool

Remember to take them fishing trips

You never had time for, this is it"

"The day of retirement have finally come

Get a gold watch and your work is done

One month later your heart give out

What was all that planning about?

What a way to go

What a way to go

What a way to go

What a way to go

Well, they finally lay you in the ground

Your wife and the children standing around

Now they got that pension plan

Rather have you, don't you know it, man"

from What a way to go by Seasick Steve

Rupert from the Saltwater Cowboys going hard at Noosa 2013

Deep Winter Six