Thursday, October 10, 2013

Write Your Story

First up, apologies to my regular visitors. I've been haunted by a few demons from the past this week and been off my game.
But I'm back.

Friday, the gateway to the weekend.
With so many "definitive" histories of surf out there, it's time we all wrote our own stories.
Just because ours' didn't feature a camera crew and competitive surf stars, doesn't mean they didn't happen.
Doesn't mean they're somehow a less valid component in our shared surfing lore.

And if you haven't got a story yet, then the weekend provides the platform for what might be considered EPIC in years to come.
Share the stoke.


  1. Snap! Good words, good sentiments.

  2. Why thank you, surfsista. And now I repair to the Corona to write the definitive history of my flouderings amongst the brine.