Preparing for The Commute today I was reminded of some of the wonderful older surfers I'd met over the years along the way, especially the ones like McTavish who has the enthusiasm of a grommet . And others again, invisible to the buffed and photoshopped media circus that trails the surf industry, but surfers with Stoke nonetheless. Surfers who have worked hard for 30 or more years, raised families, buried their parents and cashed in their superannuation to roll around the country in their RVs and Winnebagoes, their pop top caravans and their kombis. Living the Endless Summer dream until the Grim Reaper calls their number. For these surfers have paid their dues and now Monday means nothing more than a chance to reconnect with the sea and the country they have served. This post is for you.
this is all just ones and zeros
1 month ago