Caught up with a few brine brothers the other night as well as surfsista and PhD candidate Rebecca Olive, who has written a moving piece on surfing, sadness and loss for the latest version of Kurungabaasea journal. Get a copy. Be moved. Even tough old surfers have a heart. (I hope).
Thanks Bec for sharing and thanks to the rest of the BBB crew. Great to talk story with you all. Oh and thanks for the Carona and the lift Bazzmeister!
"I remember the moment when I realised my heart was breaking. When I paddled out into the crowd last summer, thinking I could escape from the fog of sadness. But it didn't work, nothing worked and I was frustrated. I remember the too bright sunlight and the too-full waves feeling like a taunt: See how good things are? See how life will go on? I remember the the way the kind words of afriend made my shoulders and tears begin to drop as I sat with her in the salt water. On that day, I stopped trying to fight anything."
excerpt from "Remembered" by Rebecca Olive Kurungabaa magazine Vol4 #1 2012